Brick Paver Calculator

Paver Patterns and Layout

Brick pavers install in dozens of patterns. The simplest is a running bond, where each course offsets by half a brick, like a traditional brick wall turned flat. This pattern is fast, uses minimal cutting, and works for any rectangular paver. It's the go-to for driveways and large patios.

Herringbone is stronger and more visually interesting. The pavers interlock at 90-degree angles, creating a zigzag pattern that resists shifting under vehicular traffic. It's the best choice for driveways and commercial applications, though it requires more cutting at edges and takes longer to lay.

Basket weave alternates pairs of pavers at right angles, creating a checkerboard effect. It's traditional for walkways and courtyards but isn't as strong as herringbone under heavy loads. Other patterns—circular, fan, random—add visual interest but increase waste and labor. Stick with running bond or herringbone for your first project to keep costs and complexity down.

Base Preparation is Everything

A paver installation is only as good as its base. Skip this step or do it poorly, and the pavers will sink, shift, and crack within a year. Start by excavating to the proper depth: finished paver height plus 1 inch of sand plus 4-6 inches of base for patios, 6-8 inches for driveways.

Use crushed stone or gravel base, not rounded river rock. Crushed aggregate has angular edges that lock together under compaction. Spread it in 2-inch layers, compacting each layer with a plate compactor before adding the next. Proper compaction is critical—soft base fails under load.

Top the compacted base with 1 inch of coarse sand or granite screenings. Screed it level with a straight board, then lay pavers without stepping on the sand. Once pavers are in place, sweep polymeric sand or screenings into the joints, compact the entire surface with a plate tamper, then sweep in more joint sand and compact again. This locks the pavers together and prevents weed growth.

Estimating Materials and Waste

Paver area equals the square footage of your project. For complex shapes, break the area into rectangles and triangles, calculate each, then sum the results. Add 5-10% for waste—cutting, breakage, and future repairs. Intricate patterns and curved edges push waste to 15-20%.

Sand and base quantities depend on depth. A 1-inch sand bed over 200 square feet equals 200/12 = 16.67 cubic feet, or about 0.6 cubic yards. Sand weighs roughly 2700 pounds per cubic yard, so you need about 0.8 tons. A 4-inch base layer is four times that volume, or 2.4 cubic yards, which is about 3.2 tons of gravel.

Order materials in bulk when possible. A ton of gravel delivered costs far less than buying 50-pound bags at a garden center. If your project is small, bagged materials may be more convenient, but for anything over 100 square feet, bulk delivery saves money and time. Always buy extra base and sand—leftover material is cheap insurance against running short mid-install.